A vintage post, rescued from before the site was hacked -January 7, 2008.
Unless you use PeaceMeals, a big part of making your meals for the week is grocery shopping. So why not come visit the new Whole Foods here in Oakland with me?
I am telling you, it is INSANE in there. I always experienced Whole Foods as an upscale, schmancy place, but I did not know how far they could take it. Look at their bathrooms:

And you know that multi-stone-looking granite-type countertop material is some eco-friendly recycled stuff, too. I think it may even be a green building; up in the TOP parking lot (that’s right, they have more than one parking lot) the walls say things about their use of solar power and their carbon offsets and whatnot.
They have outdone themselves. The store is laid out in a circle. You’re led through the seafood and produce section around to the “Bistro.” I have no idea what the Bistro does, since there’s already a prepared foods section and what looks like it may be a cafe. Then past the meat area, where they DRY AGE THEIR BEEF IN A GLASS CABINET RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU. I’m sorry, I got a little excited there. CUSTOM DRY AGED BEEF. For as long as you want, I think. Maybe I am projecting my Dream Beef onto them. I read Jeffrey Steingarten’s essay about how wet-aging is cheaper and easier and it’s so hard to find dry-aged beef and the ideal beef is dry-aged 6-8 weeks and, well, it’s a good thing I don’t really eat beef because I would be insufferable about it. Now I have fantasies of ordering beef for them to dry-age and coming to visit it once a week.
Oh, and the produce. The produce! It is not as good as the farmer’s market or the Berkeley Bowl. Anywhere that charges some $2.50 for one pesticide-coated pomegranate, in season, is on my shit list. Especially when I saw that right after buying an organic one for about 25 cents at the farmer’s market. Please. And could I find organic eggplant? No I could not. But (if you’re not actually trying to buy something to eat) they make up for it with the gorgeous layouts. Forests of asparagus:

Walls full of beautifully arranged pre-packaged fruit and vegetable dishes:

What you can’t see in that picture – besides the crazy prices – is that when I took it, every single dish was mislabeled. Fun to look at, happy I wasn’t buying them.
After you curve past the meat window, you pass by the valley of cheeses, where employees are slicing cheeses for you to taste right there. And, of course, the intimidating chocolate mountain:

I was quite impressed with the layout there. It’s really not that much chocolate. It’s just that little island. But the way it is piled up and strewn about, the way that they continue the brands and colors in a line from the top to the base of the pile, gives the impression that there is chocolate absolutely freaking EVERYWHERE, that it is about to start falling from the ceiling and piling up around your ankles and vast chocolate rivers are flowing down the adjacent aisles. And that’s reflected in this store as a whole: being forced to walk around this gently curving series of sections makes it hard to envision where things are and makes it seem like it goes on forever and ever. It’s a great design which I’m sure is making them tons of money – even without the hordes of upscale Oaklanders who have apparently been just dying to spend all their grocery dollars here instead of… where? the Montclair Safeway? The former Grand Lake Albertson’s?
After that the aisles start, and the store becomes something of a blur. The center of the store is mind-boggling all the way around, though: if you stay out of the aisles you get to see costly deli items, locally made refrigerated truffles from XOX, a bakery, a gelato bar… a gelato bar! Inside the grocery store!
And then, since it is Whole Foods, you get to wade through things like thirty dollar bottles of mangosteen puree promising energy and longevity and a mysterious glow emanating from your every pore – not that I’m not tempted by the mangosteen puree – and ridiculously adorable handmade baby booties made from organic cotton, and fair trade lavender-scented cacao butter hand lotion made by small groups of women in West African villages, and a small adult clothing section with more indigenous hand-crafted organic high-priced really pretty clothing, and finally you get to stand next to piles of peanut-butter brownies to wait in line and just try not to buy anything else before you get there.
And then try to figure out how to get back to where you started and find your way out!
It’s like Food Disneyland in there. It’s somehow both wonderful and evil, it’s gorgeous and dangerous, and it ends up costing you a lot more to go there than you initially planned. But man, is it pretty in there!




